But yet again, Honda had this all figured out...
***** For detailed instructions on how to "Trailer it", scroll down this page. *****
That is my place in the background. Drew the plans myself, and acted as the Contractor to build it. Anything that I didn't do myself I subcontracted out. Broke ground in May, 1996, built it over the summer, and moved in on September 30, 1996.
Here are the close up pictures of the bike on the trailer...
To see a larger version of this picture, click HERE.
To see a larger version of this picture, click HERE.
To see a larger version of this picture, click HERE.
To see a larger version of this picture, click HERE.
I'll be honest with you... I've had the bike on the trailer strapped down just like this nearly a dozen times, at sustained speeds up to 85 mph, and I have never worried once...
There are a few that swear you must also use this special $30 harness thingie called a "Canyon Dancer" to properly strap down a PC to a trailer. Guess what...? It's totally unnecessary. It can be done simply with just good quality straps. The straps that I have used in these pictures cost around $30.00 combined.
This trailer allows one man loading and unloading. Ride it on, ride it off. If there are two people, then it can be pushed on if necessary.
Lately, there have been a number of questions and comments on the PC800 List Server regarding how to haul and trailer the PC. Well, I don't claim to be the expert, but the system that I use in the above pictures works very well, at a minimal cost. When I get the PC on the trailer (as pictured above), I can grab the passenger grab rail with both hands and shake the bike as hard as I can, and I end up shaking the whole trailer and the back half of the car. I'd say that it is on there pretty securely. I wouldn't want to, but I wouldn't be afraid to make any sort of emergency maneuver with the bike back there. I feel that it would get through just fine...
Here's how I do it.
Under the front and rear crash bar covers, there are steel crash bars, that are attached to the frame. These are the points that Honda recommends attaching straps to the PC, and they work VERY well. The front crash bar cover is attached by tabs, as well as a single hex head screw on the bottom of each (the wrench is in the tool kit). The rear cover is only attached by tabs. I cannot describe here how to remove the covers, it is a learned "art". It is not difficult, and it can be done different ways. The Service Manual provides this on how to remove them.
This is a scan from the PC Service Manual on removing the fairing crash bar cover. To see a larger version of this picture, click HERE.
This is a scan from the PC Service Manual on removing the saddlebag crash bar cover. To see a larger version of this picture, click HERE.
On the front crash bar cover, there are 8 different tabs... One towards the front, three on top, two towards the back, and two on the bottom. For the rear cover, there are 5 tabs... One towards the front, two on the top, on towards the back, and one on the bottom. Work slowly and you will get the cover off without any damage. Take your time the first few times. I am to the point now where I can remove them all in less than two minutes.
Once the covers are removed, you now see the crash bars (neat, eh?). These are the perfect attachment points for straps. Take the crash bar covers and put them in a safe place (trunk or passenger seat) and wrap them up in a towel or jacket. That way you wont step on them or leave them on the trailer and they blow off. You are now ready to load the bike. Also, remember to do something "smart" with the two screws from the front covers. I screw them back into the crash bar and tighten them.
Personally, I would not consider loading my PC in the back of a pickup, unless I had a loading dock or ramp to use at both "Point A" and "Point B" (or a half a dozen burly men available). A trailer can be rented from many contractor rental yards, and U-Haul has a special trailer made specially for hauling motorcycles, ATV's, garden tractors, and the like. The U-Haul one sits a foot off the ground, has a notch built in for the front wheel, and has an "air gate" ramp (like on my trailer) for easy, easy, easy loading (RIDE it on, RIDE it off!). They rent these trailers for just $12.95 a day!!! By using the right trailer, this becomes a one person job with a lot less effort and frustration... It is so much easier with a trailer, and trailers are inexpensive to rent.
To see a larger version of this picture, click HERE.
To see a larger version of this picture, click HERE.
Here's the actual "loading and strapping" process.
When I load it on my trailer, I ride it up the ramp and get it up on the trailer. I put it in neutral and set it on the side stand. I "bump" the front wheel against a 2x8 board that I have across the full width of the trailer. This board is in a place that gives the trailer proper tongue weight when the PC is loaded on it. This trailer is 5 feet by 10 feet and is a nice size to haul the PC. I also have taken and placed several 3/8" "eye bolts" though the frame that runs around the perimeter of the bed. These eye bolts make perfect attachment points for the straps.
At this point, I take my straps and determine which ones will go where. I personally use 5 or 7 straps, depending on the length of the trip and the route I will be taking (shorter low speed trips = 5 straps, longer high speed trips = 7 straps).
Here is my strap "inventory"...
2 ratcheting straps. Around $5.00 each.
5 standard (cam buckle) straps. Good quality "4 packs" of these cost $20.
I only use the ratcheting straps for when I plan high speed (75+ mph) extended travel.
One of the standard straps goes through the front wheel (with a shop towel around it to protect the finish of the wheel). This will also act to keep the handlebars secure (with the tire bumped up against the board). Go ahead and put this one on loosely. On each side, I use either two or three straps, again, depending on the type of travel that I will be doing.
The following procedures apply to BOTH sides. On the rear crash bar, I attach one strap, and run it backwards towards the back corner of the trailer. This keeps the rear tire on the ground in case there are some dips in the road or (deceptively smooth looking) rough railroad tracks. At the front crash bar, I attach one strap on the crash bar, and run it forward towards the front corner of the trailer. When I plan high speed extended travel, I also take a ratcheting strap, and also attach it to the front crash bar, and then run it straight out toward the side of the trailer, to create a six pointed "star" of attachment points that radiate outwards. This is how I have the PC strapped down in the above pictures. Strapped like this, I can't see how the bike can come off the trailer without being in a serious accident.
Now that the bike is on the trailer on the sidestand with the straps laid out, I take the straps and now attach the other end of the straps to the trailer. I adjust the straps on the stand side with just enough slack so that as it comes off the side stand, they will begin to tighten (so it doesn't tip over to the other side if something goes wrong). The ratcheting straps are nice for slowly lifting the bike off the side stand. At this point, I slowly tighten the straps, one at a time on the right-hand side, to gradually lift it off the side stand, but also checking the straps on the stand side also for proper adjustment, so it doesn't accidentally get tossed over to the right-hand side (due to a gust of wind, etc). Once the bike is under the control of the straps, put the side stand up, then gradually start tightening down all the straps (including the front one) to "snug down" the shocks and suspension (1-2") for a secure ride.
Once all the straps are fully tightened and you are satisfied, then tie (or tape) all the loose strap ends so that they don't slap against the bike and damage the paint while in transport. Always remember to remove the key and make sure the trunk is shut, as well as the gas door. Double check that the bike is in Neutral and the side stand is up.
Check the straps after the first 5 or 10 miles for tightness, and then every time you stop after that (for gas, food, etc), and all should be fine...
If you have any questions regarding this procedure, mail me at the link on the main page of this website, and I'll help however that I can. I've even walked someone through this procedure over the phone!!! I hope that this has helped...
For pictures of the bike on the trailer from a distance, see below.
Here are two from shortly after I bought it. This was the first trip on the trailer...
To see a larger version of this picture, click HERE.
To see a larger version of this picture, click HERE.
Page last updated March 15, 2001.